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El cosmético es el sector de consumo que más invierte en innovación Val Díez, directora general de Stanpa Stanpa
Entrevista con Val Díez, directora general de la Asociación Nacional de Perfumería y Cosmética España ocupa la primera posición en las patentes en perfumería, cosmética y aceites esenciales en la Unión Europea La patronal del sector, cifra en 300 millones la inversión en innovación durante 2018 Una de las industrias que más invierte en innovación en España no está relacionada con aparatos tecnológicos, ni con motores de automóviles, ni con productos alimenticios, sino con algo más mundano que utilizamos a diario: desde la pasta de dientes a la crema solar . En el sector de la cosmética y perfumería jugamos en la liga de los más grandes:
España es el quinto mercado de la UE. Está en el top diez global. Es el segundo exportador mundial de perfumes, solo por detrás de Francia. El pasado año las exportaciones crecieron un 10% y superaron los 4.200 millones de euros. Al poderío de los perfumes españoles se suman también otros productos que triunfan en todo el mundo. "Sabemos muchísimo de protección solar y de cuidado de la piel, porque nuestra sociedad vive al aire libre y nos gusta salir", explica Val Díez, directora general de la Asociación de Nacional de Perfumería y Cosmética (STANPA) . "Tenemos un equilibrio que nos convierte en líderes: la calidad alemana, el diseño del italiano y la competitividad en precio mejor que Francia; territorios cuna, por tradición, del sector de la perfumería y la cosmética. Eso es un gran éxito".
Es el sector acumula ya una década mejorando año tras año sus ventas al exterior. Otro dato que señala la internacionalización de las empresas: España será el país de honor en la 'China Beauty Expo 2020 ', una de las citas más importantes de la industria.
“La industria ha estado siempre por detrás de la notoriedad de los productos y las grandes marcas. Pero se ha producido una evolución enorme en la última década”, destaca la directora general de la Asociación de Nacional de Perfumería y Cosmética (Stanpa), Val Díez. Una de las claves de este éxito, dice, es la apuesta por la innovación. El sector dedica a I+D el 3,4% de su facturación, más de 300 millones de euros al año . Supone colocarse por delante de lo que gasta la automoción o la industria química, que invierten el 2,5% y el 1,1%, respectivamente, según el estudio realizado por Stanpa.
“A diario se trabaja para innovar en bienestar, se reformula, se buscan nuevos productos”, señala Díez. Eso explica, asegura, porqué España lidera la publicación de patentes en Europa relacionados con este ámbito: de las 2.453 presentadas, 881 son españolas. Por delante de las cifras de Francia y Alemania.
Más de un siglo de conocimiento Para entender la fortaleza del sector de la cosmética y la perfumería en nuestro país hay que remontarse bastante décadas atrás porque fue entonces cuando se produjo un histórico desarrollo del conocimiento químico y farmacéutico . “Durante el periodo de autarquía se tuvo que impulsar la fabricación de productos para el cuidado personal. En esos años se produjo la expansión de empresas como Gal, Myrurgia o Puig, que crearon bases industriales muy sólidas. Levantaron su propia industria y esa producción no fue eclipsada cuando luego llegaron las marcas internacionales”. Esa experiencia se demuestra, dice la directora general de Stanpa, en que actualmente muchas multinacionales, desde Nivea a L'Oreal , tienen plantas de producción en España.
El gran motor de crecimiento del sector es la innovación. “Fuimos muy vanguardistas en tener que investigar de otra manera. Hace dos décadas que se dejó de investigar con animales y se adoptaron otras técnicas, como los cultivos celulares, mucho más propias de la medicina”. Esta evolución está detrás, dice Díez, de que el 21% de los profesionales tengan perfil técnico y vengan de campos como la biología, la química o diferentes ingenierías. El porcentaje es similar al que se observa en sectores como el de la informática o la electrónica.
El reto de la sostenibilidad El sector tiene claro que la innovación debe servir para cuidar a una sociedad con una larga esperanza de vida, cada vez más diversa y que afronta el desafío de la sostenibilidad. “Es el reto más complejo y ya se han llevado a cabo acciones muy exitosas. Cuando empezó el debate de las micropartículas plásticas en el mar el sector pensaba que no tenía nada que ver con ese impacto. Se hizo un análisis muy profundo y se comprobó que en algunos productos que se aclaran, como la pasta de dientes o los exfoliantes, las partículas podían acabar llegando al mar. Se recomendó su disminución y dos años más tarde se había reducido el 97,6% de esas partículas. Eso se consigue investigando y buscando nuevas fórmulas”.
Esa innovación para proteger al planeta se extiende también a los envoltorios. En el caso de la cosmética, dice la directora general de la Stanpa, forman parte de los estándares de seguridad del producto, por lo que la evolución del empaquetado debe de basarse siempre en la investigación científica.
Pero esta apuesta por la investigación no siempre es fácil, reconoce Díez. “Es la forma de tener éxito, pero es cierto que no siempre hay buenas formas de coordinación, cuesta encontrar perfiles y fondos que apoyen. Los procesos burocráticos son tan disuasorios que hacen sea muy difícil abordarlos cuando el dinamismo es clave en el sector”.