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El Transiberiano, contado por un experto: "Fue mi sueño infantil" El Transiberiano, en la ruta Moscú-Vladivostok. Eltransiberiano.com.
El periodista, fotógrafo y escritor Pablo Zulaica explica en su libro, 'Paisajeros', cómo sacar todo el partido a los viajes en tren "Viajar en tren ayuda a sentirse vivo, más cercano al diferente" "Comunicarse o desenvolverse en entornos muy distintos pueden enseñar tanto o más que zonas monumentales" Pablo Zulaica es periodista, escritor y fotógrafo. También es viajero, un viajero pausado al que no solo le interesa llegar al destino, sino disfrutar del viaje. El tren parece el medio idóneo para estos trayectos demorados, en los que el paisaje del camino es un compañero más de aventuras. Con estas premisas, Zulaica acaba de publicar 'Paisajeros' (GeoPlaneta) , una guía de cómo es hoy viajar en tren y la crónica de un aventurero en las rutas que hoy nos siguen fascinando a todos. Desde Noruega hasta la Pampa y desde Canfranc hasta Madagascar , el libro recorre también la India, la Costa Este de Estados Unidos, Irán y Uzbekistán y muchos otros rincones del mundo. Con él, hablamos de algunos de los viajes que más le han impactado.
¿Qué es lo más interesante de estos periplos?
Viajar así ayuda a sentirse vivo, más cercano al diferente , ya que con el que se nos parece todos somos muy majos. Eso de ser muy amigo de los amigos está genial, pero, ¿y qué pasa con los demás? Algunos viajes me han resultado terapéuticos , otros han llenado espacios de curiosidad, pero todos me han aportado historias, se me han revelado como viajes personales, con encuentros o conversaciones que han resultado ser destinos que no están en ningún mapa.
Hablemos de algunas de las rutas que más nos fascinan, por ejemplo, el Transiberiano...
El Transiberiano me ayudó a dimensionar la enormidad y cómo afrontar la lejanía , aunque esa vía férrea no deja de ser una suerte de autopista y, según se mire, lo remoto puede estar muy lejos de ella. El Transiberiano pasa de ser un sueño infantil en el que uno imagina un tren de lujo y termina por insertarlo a uno en la vida cotidiana de personas que viven en la estepa. ¡Cuánto mejor!
¿Se disfruta tanto como promete?
Si uno se lleva bien con la lectura y la escritura, con la soledad y a la vez con compañía que puede durar días, quizás no haya mejor destino.
De los que describes, Canfranc es otro destino mítico.
Tengo la sensación de que para muchos de quienes vivimos hoy hay dos Canfranc: el previo a la reforma y el posterior . Otros tendrán un tercer Canfranc en el que aún se veía el vapor, o los trenes que llegaban desde Francia.
¿Pudiste conocerlo antes de la rehabilitación del espacio?
Me llega mucha información del actual hotel y del parque que se ha diseñado, cosa que me alegra tras tantos años de echarse a perder el patrimonio, pero ver lo que hacen el olvido y la intemperie es algo que pude hacer en 2014 y aún en 2018, igual que otros muchos que se animaron a merodear y a imaginar en la explanada. Eso ya no será posible, a no ser que aquello vaya a menos y se repitan los errores.
La Ruta de la seda es, quizá, el viaje por antonomasia, el de los primeros exploradores. ¿Cuál fue tu experiencia?
Es curioso, pero, probablemente y sin mirar en Google, no sepamos decir ni una ciudad de Uzbekistán . Y no pasa nada, pero allí está Samarcanda . Y Bujará y Jiva, las otras dos joyas de la corona. Pero una ruta es mucho más que eso.
¿Qué es, entonces, para ti?
Más allá de estas ciudades, todas ellas alucinantes, me cuesta concebir un recorrido histórico a partir de ciudades monumento. Los mercados de sitios como Murghab, Dushambé o Juyand, a veces hechos a base de contenedores habitados, los trayectos habituales entre ellas o el reto que supone comunicarse o desenvolverse en entornos tan distintos pueden enseñar tanto o más que las zonas monumentales más sonadas.
Temas